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 Cover story: 05 June
 Vol. 26 No. 6
The Lahu
Who are They?
 
By Mintra

Tak is the second largest northern province of Thailand after Chiang Mai. Most areas are mountains and forests where several hilltribes inhabit. The Ping River runs through the province while the Moei River functions as the border between Thailand and Myanmar at Mae Sot County which is a trading centre of the two countries.



Situated 426 km north of Bangkok, Tak possesses several luxuriant national parks such as Taksin Maharat National Park, Mae Moei National Park, Lansang National Park and Pha Charoen National Park. Above all, Tak has Thi Lo Su and Thi Lo Re waterfalls which are "must visit" places for nature lovers and those who love to shoot the rapids.


Thi Lo Su Waterfall,
the most famous waterfall of Tak Province
Photo is by courtesy of TAT


Several hilltribes such as the Lahu, Hmong, Karen and Lisu migrating from southern China and Shan from Myanmar are living in Tak. Among these, an interesting hilltribe is the Lahu. With 237 households, Ban Huai Pla Lot is a large village of the Lahu located in Taksin Maharat National Park in Mae Sot County.

In August 2004, Ban Huai Pla Lot was chosen to be in the New Planning Forest Village Project under the Royal Patronage of H.M. Queen Sirikit. The project aims to encourage people to harmoniously live with nature.



Some of the Lahu's farm produce


The Lahu Establishment


Around forty years ago, four Lahu families came to settle down at the present area. The fertility of the land has attracted more people to join the community here. Since most Lahu here are farmers, agricultural produce like rice, corn and vegetables are plentiful, mostly consumed by the households with some more on sale at Doi Mussur (Lahu) Fresh Market situated near the village's entrance.



In the early phase of the settlement, numerous villagers were addicted to opium. And poppy was a cash crop generating high income for them. That was why at that time poppy fields were found at almost every corner. Opium cultivation differs from rice farming in that opium cultivation is done on a slash and burn basis while rice farming is done on a rotated land. When the soil lost all minerals, the Lahu moved to plant poppies at a new place. This resulted in dramatic deforestation.


A Lahu mother and child


However, there are some forests remaining intact especially those at the very water source, the areas around ancestors' shrines and cemeteries. Thanks are due to the strictness in their doctrines emphasizing not to intrude into these mentioned areas.


The Lahu are at work in the forest.


In 1981, the establishment of Taksin Maharat National Park was declared. Its territory covers the living section of the Lahu village. The government at first tried to evacuate them to another place with a promise that it would be better than the old one. The chieftain and other leaders of the village at that time went to explore the new land and found it unsuitable for the Lahu lifestyle. They decided not to move to anywhere else no matter what happened. Moreover, they were advised by a revered roaming monk to help preserve the forests and prove to the forest rangers that they, the villagers, could protect the forests. From then on, the Lahu villagers have seriously protected and monitored the woods.


The Restoration of the
Forest's Fertility


The villagers analysed the problems and found that the cause of dramatic deforestation was opium cultivation. So, they began to prohibit its cultivation and destroyed all poppy fields. In addition, the villagers also cooperated with the government officials to cure the addicts until there were no addicts left.


Bamboo shoots, one of the
Lahu's farm produce


When there was no opium cultivation, the forests were gradually revived. The villagers started to plant bamboos and coffee according to the agroforestry principle. These plants have brought profits to the villagers for years.


The harvested chayote


The chayote in a planting field

There is a slightly sloping plain at the foot of the hill with a stream running through. It is used to grow chayote, now a cash crop of the community. This kind of vegetable is available at the hilltribe market and some of it is sold to the middlemen coming directly to the village. The chayote planting here utilizes only natural fertilizers from cow and chicken dung. The production cost is thus low and the profits are satisfactory.


A female Lahu is at work.


A Lahu weir


The Forest Area Expansion
and the Increase of Humidity
in the Forests


After the opium cultivation was abolished, naturally-grown trees began to thrive together with the planted trees of the villagers. Apart from reforestation, there are attempts to build weirs at many spots in the forests to slow down the flowing water. This helps to increase humidity of the woods and encourage the growing of the trees. Some streams whose water used to run dry in the cool season, now have water all year round.


The Lahu fresh food market


The Market Selling Products
of the Lahu and the Lahu Museum


The market is situated on Tak-Mae Sot Highway (Highway 105 at Km.26). At this market you will see the lifestyle of the hilltribes such as their trading of farm products. In the market area, is also situated the Lahu Museum where daily-life household items of the Lahu and other tribes are displayed. If you would like to view hilltribe performances, please contact Tak Hilltribe Social Development Centre on tel: 0 5551 3614.
The museum also exhibits medicinal herbs of the Lahu. For example, yakhini is used to cure malaria and cha-khan daeng has the property to boost blood circulation. Moreover, the exhibition features the Lahu musical instruments, ornaments such as bracelets for boys, agricultural equipment, wedding ceremony and other aspects of Lahu culture.

Lifestyle and culture

A traditional Lahu house is built on stilts about one metre above the ground. The structure is made of hard wood. The roof is made of thatch while partitions and floor are made of bamboo. Daily utensils are principally made of bamboo and wood. Traditional costume features black cloth with white and blue stripes. Silver is used as their ornaments. The Lahu usually marry young and they are monogamous.


A Lahu house


"Kin Wo"
or the Lahu New Year Festival is an important festival of the Lahu. Everyone wears a new set of clothes on that day. Entertainments include folk music and a dance which is done to welcome foreigners and members of other hilltribes attaining the "Kin Wo" Festival. The Lahu dance is called


The Lahu children


"Cha Khue"
. They will dance all night long. Those who are tired will take a rest and those who are still active will take turn to dance continuously in order not to allow the stepping sound to fade away. Even though this is a joyous time, no one is allowed to drink. During the fair period, nobody works. A Lahu who violates this rule will be fined. Besides, they must travel to visit their relatives at other villages as well. During the "Kin Wo" Festival, they kill pigs to make offerings to "ghosts" every day.



In conclusion, Ban Huai Pla Lot is an eco-tourist attraction which is recommended to nature lovers who want to truly experience how to live in the forests and to study the life and culture of the Lahu.

How to Get There

Ban Huai Pla Lot Village is located in Taksin Maharat National Park, Dan Mae Lamao District, Mae Sot County, Tak Province. From Tak's provincial town, use Highway 105 (Tak-Mae Sot). When reaching Km.26, turn right onto a laterite road. Drive for about seven kilometres and you will reach the village.


For more information, please contact Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tak Office on tel: 0 5551 4341-3, Khun Chakkraphong Mongkhonkhiri, the Chieftain of Ban Huai Pla Lot Village on tel: 08 9857 6850.

Special thanks to Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tak Office for arranging a trip to Tak.

For the correct pronunciation of romanized Thai words, see
Romanization System of the Thai Language .






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