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Cover
story: 10 Aug
Vol. 25 No.9 |
Ratchaprasong
Intersection (where Ratchadamri Rd. passes between Rama
I Rd. and Phloen Chit Rd.) offers far beyond what most
tourists may expect. Apart from being the most glamorous
cosmopolitan zone where several luxury hotels and world-class
shopping arcades are located (See map of Bangkok, D3),
the Ratchaprasong Intersection is also known as the
"Holy Intersection" or "Deity Intersection",
which coincidentally serves as a spiritual refuge for
the many. Some of you may have heard a bit about the
story but don't have an opportunity to explore the area
in detail. In this issue, Thaiways will take
you on a walking tour of Ratchaprasong Intersection
to discover it in a different aspect and, moreover,
to find out why it is given such names.
The Brahma Shrine
is normally
seen with piles of yellow
marigold garlands and a
number of believers
coming to ask for blessing.
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BRAHMA SHRINE (At the corner of the
Grand Hyatt Erawan)
There are altogether six Hindu deities enshrined in
and around this intersection. Let me relate their stories
to you one by one. My first spot was the Brahma Shrine,
on the corner of Phloen Chit and Ratchadamri Roads.
A troupe of classical Thai dancers
are performing a classical
dance behind two worshippers.
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It was a hot afternoon, and the yellow marigold garlands
hanging on the hexagonal iron fence around the Brahma
Statue were shriveled up from the heat of the scorching
sun, but the metallic gold, four-faced statue was yet
surrounded by people from diverse cultures. At one side
of the shrine, a group of young women in traditional
costumes were performing a classical dance to a soft
Thai melody as a votive offering to the Lord.
Tiny wooden elephants are on sale at stalls
surrounding the shrine.
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A belief that deities have power to give blessings or
mete punishments out to humans is in all races, especially
among the Thais whose culture is an integration of Buddhism
and Hinduism. There is a story about the origin of the
Brahma Shrine here. During the construction of the Erawan
Hotel in the early 1950s, now the Grand Hyatt Erawan,
obstacles and mishaps cropped up one after the other,
and it was suggested by a spiritual guru to hold a sacrificial
rite to beg the god's forgiveness as they used the name
"Erawan", which is the vehicle of Vishnu,
one of the Hindu sacred triad along with Brahma and
Shiva, without seeking for permission from Brahma, the
supreme god.
Believe it or not, everything went on smoothly after
the rite and the project was completed on schedule.
Then, the shrine to Lord Brahma was set up in 1956 and
the hotel has been prosperous in business. Later, when
the story of Brahma's power spread out, more and more
people came to pay homage and the place became a favourable
place for wish makers. The Brahma here is renowned for
granting all kinds of wishes ranging from education,
career, family, love life, etc. and the most popular
offering is a traditional Thai dance, which a dancing
troupe is available to be hired to perform at the shrine.
INDRA STATUE (In front of Amarin Shopping
Complex)
I left the crowded Brahma Shrine, walked down a little
on Phloen Chit Road, and stopped at the emerald statue
of the Lord Indra, the God of Thunder, Storm, and War,
in front of Amarin Shopping Complex, adjacent to the
Chitlom skytrain station. The statue of the Indra holding
a thunderbolt and a bow in his hands is enshrined here
to make the business attain prosperity, to protect people
from the powers of the darkness, as well as to create
a spiritual balance.
Indra statue
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Next to his shrine, there is a tiny stall selling fresh
marigold garlands and miniature wooden elephant figurines,
which are used as offerings to the god when one's wish
is granted. |
Narayana statue
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NARAYANA STATUE (In front of the
InterContinental Hotel)
After paying homage to the Indra, I crossed the Phloen
Chit Road to visit the black statue of the Narayana
standing astride the garuda in front of the InterContinental
Bangkok. This statue was erected in 1997 with the
aims of providing stability, preserving the delicate
spiritual balance in the intersection, and protecting
the business and well-being of the worshippers. Besides,
it is believed that his power can deflect evil spirits
that may exist in the area.
Lakshmi statue |
LAKSHMI STATUE (4th Floor of Gaysorn
Plaza)
Not far from the Narayana statue, the image of Lakshmi,
Narayana's consort and the only female deity in this
intersection, who is respected as the Goddess of Wealth
and Fertility, is enshrined. Her golden statue glitters
in the sunlight outside the building on the fourth
floor of Gaysorn Plaza, on Ratchadamri Road. Built
in 1996 and located outside on the rooftop overlooking
the intersection, the Goddess Lakshmi is supposed
to make the good balance of unseen power and protect
the business from harm. It is also believed that her
power helps reinforce Narayana's power. Though situated
on a hideaway place, the locals regularly visit to
pay homage to the Goddess. Pink lotus blossoms and
coins, which are symbolic of wealth, are usually offered
to her.
TRIMURATI STATUE (In front of Isetan)
From Gaysorn Plaza, I walked across the Ratchadamri
Road to Isetan, which is part of Central World Shopping
Mall to worship the Trimurati. The deity is a combination
form of three prominent deities of Hinduism, viz.
Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Though not as popular as
the Brahma Shrine, the Trimurati's reputation among
Thai teens as the God of Love has risen gradually
and continuously.
Trimurati statue |
The site where the Trimurati Statue is situated was
once Phetchabun Palace. After the end of World War
II, the dilapidated palace was pulled down and, later,
turned into a large shopping centre called World Trade
Center. And at the suggestion of a feng shui master,
the Trimurati Shrine was built at the corner to offset
the enormous power of Brahma on the opposite corner.
However, this assumption seemed to fail, as World
Trade Center did not succeed in business. When the
new management team of Central World took over it,
they decided to move the shrine from the corner of
the intersection (across the Brahma Shrine) to another
end in front of Isetan.
Since Trimurati is regarded as the
"God of Love", red roses are presented
to him as a votive offering.
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No matter how its origin is, the Shrine has turned
to be a significant place of worship for single people
who have always longed for true love as well as new
couples who have had a strong desire for a lasting
relationship. Legend has it that the Trimurati descends
on earth to listen to prayers' wishes on Tuesdays
and Thursdays around 9.30 p.m., therefore, red roses
are brought there as an offering to the Lord.
Ganesh statue |
GANESH STATUE (In front of Isetan)
Standing next to the Trimurati is the statue of Ganesh,
the son of Shiva. This is the last Hindu deity to
be worshipped in the holy intersection. Ganesh's outstanding
chubby boy figure with an elephant head is easily
recognizable. He is widely respected as the God of
Wisdom and Success. At the shrine, each day people
brings yellow garlands (sometimes with fruits) to
pay homage to the Ganesh with the hope that they will
be blessed with success in education and careers,
especially ones that need creativity and inspiration.
To me it looks like business owners in the Ratchaprasong
area may have wanted to make a balance of divinities?
power to protect their businesses from being tricked
by unseen power. It is possible that the ancient Hindu
deities thrive in Thailand because the belief in the
existence of gods is assimilated with the superstitious
belief in Thai society. However, the six Hindu deities
located in the Ratchaprasong Intersection do add warmth
and colour to this posh neighborhood. Along with being
the centre of the finest hotels, and luxurious shopping
malls, the intersection is yet regarded by some people
as a spiritual refuge.
VISITING TIMES:
Brahma Shrine: 6.00-23.00 hrs
Lakshmi Statue: 10.00-20.00 hrs
Trimurati, Ganesh, Narayana, and Indra statues: 24
hrs
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