| Cover
story: 10
July 06 / Vol.
23 No. 7 |
| Uncovering
the Buried Treasure
|
By Blue Lotus
/ Photos by In-chan
|
The main chedi of Wat Chedi
Liam
|
Although Chiang Mai has long been a favourite destination for
foreign tourists visiting northern Thailand, the city still
conceals quite a few secret sites capable of dazzling travellers
willing to seek them out. And not until 1984, one of these hidden
gems was uncovered attracting archeology enthusiasts and visitors
alike to Chiang Mai to journey the required 5 km off the tourist
map to explore it.
Wiang Kum Kam Information Centre
|
Half-hidden behind a tranquil neighbourhood of traditional wooden
houses, Buddhist temples and longan orchards, are the sprawling
remains of Wiang Kum Kam, an ancient capital city that briefly
ruled over Lanna, the former northern Thai Kingdom over 700
years ago.
A part of exhibition rooms in
Wiang Kum Kam Information Centre |
Happening to be in Chiang Mai recently, I did not miss a chance
to visit this valuable legacy of early civilization of Lanna.
My trip began with a visit to Wiang Kum Kam Information
Centre where I was provided with a clear picture of
Wiang Kum Kam in former times. The centre was divided into several
rooms for different exhibitions including a multimedia room
and other rooms featuring the historical development and significance
of Wiang Kum Kam as a nation's important cultural resources
in various aspects such as geography, strategic importance,
development of architecture and ways of life of the people.
The remains of decorative stucco
on the mondop (a
wall-less square structure)
of the main chedi, Wat Pu Pia
|
Wiang Kum Kam was established in 1281 AD by Chiang Mai founder,
the revered King Mengrai, but was destroyed after only 15 years
when the Ping River suddenly changed course and flooded the
city. King Mengrai moved his capital to the other side of the
river, in the same location as present-day Chiang Mai, after
flood waters inundated his city and rapidly buried it under
alluvial soil. Through time, the name of Wiang Kum Kam faded
away from memory and was believed to be only a town in legend.
A systematic archeological study
of Wiang Kum Kam began after villagers discovered dozens of
votive tablets in the ground of the Wat Chang Kham area in 1984.
Then, an excavation to collect more data was carried out by
the Fine Arts Department archeologists. The excavation was productive
as it yielded a lot of evidence confirming that the area where
Wiang Kum Kam was located is the same place as the one mentioned
in legend.
The study from aerial photographs and archeological exploration
shows that there are traces of the southern wall, and the northern
and the eastern moats. It is speculated that the town was rectangular
in shape, about 600 metres wide and 850 metres long, and the
surrounding area of the ancient community spread over 3 sq.
km. After the excavation and restoration to preserve the historical
site inside and outside the town wall, it was found that there
are altogether 42 sites, mostly temples. The local guide told
me that the archeologists who excavated the sites were trying
to search for the point where the royal palace is situated.
A Buddha image in the
niche of the main chedi of Wat Chedi Liam |
Among the historical sites in Wiang Kum Kam, the one which is
still in the best condition is Wat Chedi Liam
or Wat Ku Kham Luang as known by the locals.
This temple has never been affected by flood. The principal
chedi was built on a square base and is called 'Chedi Liam'
as its body is angular in shape, which gives it its name. The
five tiers of the chedi contains 60 niches for Buddha images.
The nearby main assembly hall or vihara is very attractive with
its teak wooden beams built in traditional Lanna style without
using nails.
|
The remains of vihara in Wat Chang Kham,
facing west, the first site that the
Fine Arts Department restored in 1984
|
At the heart of Wiang Kum Kam is Wat Chang Kham.
This temple contains the remains of Wat Kan Thom,
named after the craftsman, Kan Thom, who built the temple.
The main chedi, Wat Chang Kham
|
It was the discovery of a number of votive tablets at this
temple in 1984 that first alerted the Thai authorities to
the existence of ruins that might be associated with Wiang
Kum Kam. On the compound of the temple, there is a spirit
house that is revered as the home of King Mengrai. The temple
has its main vihara facing west. The chedi is a replica of
the Mahaphon Chedi at Wat Chamadevi in Lamphun.
The new vihara, Wat Chang Kham
(Kan Thom) |
In Wat Chang Kham, there is the Cultural and Local Wisdom
Learning Centre. The centre exhibits many interesting Lanna
objects such as a traditional Lanna-style house equipped with
utilities and a demonstration of ancient cloth weaving.
A group of traditional Lanna
houses exhibited
in the compound of Wat Chang Kham |
A part of kad mua, Wat
Chang Kham |
There is also a replica of kad mua, Lanna-style
market, selling all kinds of goods ranging from local food
to clothing.
The spirit house of King Mengrai,
Wat Chang Kham |
To get around the place, I would recommend that you buy a
tour package that includes transport (an open-air tram for
a group or a horse carriage for 2-4 persons) and a well-trained
volunteer guide who knows the historical significance.
Tours are organised by the local community and the rates
are reasonably fixed.
Means of transport around
Wiang Kum Kam |
To buy the tour package, you can contact Wiang Kum Kam Information
Centre or the stands in Wat Chang Kham (Wat Kan Thom) or Wat
Chedi Liam (Wat Ku Kham Luang).
Wat E-Khang |
Besides these two important sites, there are many other interesting
remains, to which you will be taken by the tour such as Wat
E-Khang, Wat Nan Chang, Wat Pu Pia, Wat That Khao and Wat
Ku Pa Dom.
Wat Nan Chang |
Come and trace back through time to the origin of Lanna kingdom.
For more information, please contact Wiang Kum Kam Information
Centre on tel. 0 5327 7322.
Wat Ku Pa Dom |
Special thanks to Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)
Northern Office Region 1 (Chiang Mai, Lamphun, Lampang and
Mae Hong Son) for arranging this impressive press tour and
to Mag Media Co.,Ltd and Forty-Five Organizer & Media
Co.,Ltd. for facilitating the photographing and giving us
useful information.
|
