| Cover
story : 25
Sep 05 / Vol. 22 No. 12
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Exploring
traces of the earliest
Siamese civilization through |
Si
Satchanalai
Historical
Park
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| By
Blue Lotus |
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Designated
as World Heritage Site Number 574 on 12 December 1991 by UNESCO,
the ancient city of Sukhothai,
along with its former vassal towns of Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng
Phet, is considered the cradle of Thai civilization.
To
appreciate the once flourishing civilization, Thaiways would
like to present the remains of this first kingdom of Siam, which
include masterpieces of the earliest Thai architecture, sculptures,
and other art objects. After introducing the historical park
of Sukhothai in the previous issue, we are going to present
the historical park of one of its important vassal towns, Si
Satchanalai in this issue. The other, Kamphaeng Phet, will be
dealt with in the ensuing issue.
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A
part of the ruined laterite elephant buttresses in
Wat Chang Lom |
Si
Satchanalai Historical Park is located on the bank of the Yom
River at Tambon Muang Kao, Si Satchanalai county, only 55 km.
from the town of Sukhothai. The ancient town, formerly call
"Muang Chaliang", was named "Si Satchanalai"
during the Phra Ruang Dynasty when a new administrative centre
was established to replace Chaliang. This ancient town occupied
more than 320 hectares (800 acres) of land. Of this, the 91-hectare
(288 acres) area within the old laterite ramparts and the city
moat is the focus of sightseeing in the historical park and
can be covered on a day trip from Sukhothai.
According
to early stone inscriptions, local legends, and historic chronicles,
Si Satchanalai was exclusively governed by the crown prince
of the Sukhothai Kingdom. Phaya Li Thai (1347-1369 AD), known
as a great ruler and scholar, was also the crown prince ruling
Si Satchanalai before ascending the throne at Sukhothai.
Wat Khok Singkharam,
another monastery outside the town wall
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There
is evidence indicating that he wrote a book called "Trai
Phum Phra Ruang," the book of life and former lives according
to Buddhist concepts, while he ruled Si Satchanalai. During
his reign, many temples were built and restored.
A stucco decorated Buddha image
in the nak-prok (naga covering)
position, reflecting the influence of
South Indian art style.
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After
King Li Thai passed away (around 1370-1371 AD), the Sukhothai
Kingdom fell under the rule of the Suwannaphum Dynasty of Ayutthaya.
Sangkhalok wares
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Si Satchanalai,
called Sawankhalok by Ayutthaya, still maintained its status
as an important town, governed only by a member of the former
Sukhothai Royal Family. However, when King Borom Trailokanat
(1448-1488 AD)governed Ayutthaya, the status of Si Satchanalai
changed to that of secondary outpost.
Si
Satchanalai, or Sawankhalok, was an important producer of glazed
ceramics called Sangkhalok wares which were exported throughout
Asian countries. Si Satchanalai's riverside site was crucial
to the development of its ceramic industry. |
Located at Ban Ko Noi, about 5 km. north
of the historical park is the Celadon Kiln Site Study and Conservation
Centre which contains a display of kilns, artifacts and excavated
ceramics. Over 500 kilns have been excavated so far in the area
of Sawankhalok town and there is evidence of the ceramics being
shipped to as far as China, Japan, Malaysia,
the Philippines and Indonesia. The Centre is open daily
during 09.00-12.00 and 13.00-16.00 hours.
Among
the remains of the 19 monuments inside the city wall, highlights
are the first three monuments from the entrance, Wat Chang Lom,
Wat Chedi Chet Thaew and Wat Nang Phaya.
Wat Chang Lom
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Wat
Chang Lom, the compound to the right of the entrance is distinctly
Sri Langkan in style, with a characteristic stupa and 39 laterite
elephant buttresses. The elephants at Wat Chang Lom are quite
different from those found at other temples.
They represent
standing elephants and are taller than life-size ones. Some
scholars believe it was the temple mentioned in the Stone Inscription
No. 1 as the place where Pho Khun Ramkhamhaeng had Buddha relics
unearthed in order to pay homage to them before reburying them
and building a chedi with a boundary wall over the relics in
the middle of Si Satchanalai town.
Various art styles of chedis
in
Wat Chedi Chet Thaew |
Wat Chedi Chet
Thaew is located opposite Wat Chang Lom to the south. The most
important constructions at this temple are the main chedi with
lotus bud-shaped top and 33 subordinate chedis believed to contain
the remains of the royal family. The chedis are adorned with
Buddha images and other stucco decorative images reflecting
various art styles, including Sri Langkan, Pagan and Srivijaya.
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Decorative
stucco in Wat Nang Phaya |
Wat
Nang Phaya, southeast to Wat Chedi Chet Thaew, is known for
the exterior of the vihara made of laterite blocks, which was
decorated with highly elaborate stucco, in the art style of
the early Ayutthaya period. The main chedi in the Sri Langkan
style, another focus of this temple, is supported by a high
base, once decorated with sculptures of elephants similar to
those at Wat Chang Lom.
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Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat
Chaliang
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Besides
these monuments within the city wall, there are many sites that
are worth visiting. One of those located to the southeast of
Si Satchanalai town is Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat Chaliang.
This large historic temple complex is one of the most impressive
sites in the area. The decorative stucco bearing the Bayon art
style of ancient Khmer found at the main entrance of the temple
as well as archeological evidence excavated here points out
clearly that this temple was originally founded before the Sukhothai
period. Its main shrine was built from blocks of laterites which
were later covered with lime plaster and red paint. Its architectural
characteristics as seen in the present indicate that it could
date back to the Ayutthaya period though some evidence suggests
that the shrine might have been built to cover an earlier structure.
Si
Satchanalai Historical Park is open daily from 08.00-17.00 hours
and admission is 40 Baht. Bicycles are provided for rent at
30 Baht a day, and elephant rides around the park are available
at 100 Baht per person per 30 minutes. Tram service is also
available in the historical park.
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