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Cover
story
: 25 Nov
2004
Vol. 21 No. 16 |
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Charoen
Krung
Road |
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Where
Memories Remain Alive |
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By
Dararai |
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 Click
to enlarge Map
of Charoen Krung |
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| Every
place has its stories and anecdotes. The older the
place, the more interesting stories it has. Legends
enhance the value of the places, bringing out their
significance. Old communities in Bangkok have their
different stories of trading and ways of life. Brief
anecdotes of Charoen Krung Road, and its communities,
which are part of the Old Town area of Bangkok,
will be related here. |
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Si Kak Phraya
Si Intersection in the olden days
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| Charoen
Krung Road was constructed in Rama IV's reign (1851-1868).
It is one of the earliest roads constructed with
Western techniques. Along both sides of the road,
shophouses are lined up, forming a string of business
communities extending from Yaowarat Road, which
is parallel to Charoen Krung. (See map.) |
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Si Kak Phraya Si at present
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Newly finished and not yet named,
the road was commonly called "New Road"
before King Mongkut (Rama IV) bestowed on it the
name of "Charoen Krung", which means
the prosperity of the city.
The road may be divided into two sections. The
northern section starts from Sanam Chai Road (near
the Temple of the Reclining Buddha) and ends at
the General Post Office. And the southern section
starts there and ends at Thanon Tok. At the beginning,
the northern part was planned to be built straight
to the city wall. However, Deputy King Pin Klao,
who was the younger brother of King Rama IV, protested
that it would run counter to the strategic principle,
since a straight road towards the Grand Palace
would allow the enemy to easily attack the city
wall. Thus, a curve was made at Damrong Sathit
Bridge. And the whole road is 8,575 m in length.
Reason to construct the new road
During the reign of King Rama IV, foreign diplomats
started to come to live and work in Thailand.
They requested permission from the King to build
a new road to facilitate their riding horses at
leisure time to get fresh air which would make
them healthy. King Mongkut considered that although
Thailand had some roads, they were not as spacious
or tidy as those in the European countries, which
was a shame to his country. Thus, the king ordered
the road to be built. The construction took three
years from 1861-1864.
The
overall condition of the road
After its completion, the southern section of
the road was too large to be put into full use
because at that time, there was just a small
number of inhabitants in that part of Bangkok.
So, only one side of the road was used, which
was enough since the only type of vehicles available
was rickshaws. Most people still preferred walking
barefoot. However, by around 1890 AD, the road
seemed to be too narrow as more and more western
automobiles were brought into this country.
Alongside were rows of one-storey shophouses
which belonged to the Chinese who came to settle
down in Thailand. This area was the earliest
trading community of Bangkok.
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Automobiles
in the reign of King Rama V
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at present, there stand one-stop-service shops selling
necessary things for using in the Chinese-style
wedding ceremony such as wedding dresses, pillows,
mattresses and offerings, which are in red and pink.
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a rickshaw
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Interesting
Points on the Northern Section of Charoen Krung
Road
• Si Kak Phraya Si has its name
derived from Phraya Si Saha Thep, the leader of
Peguan immigrants who migrated to Thailand during
the period of Rama IV and settled down there.
"Kak" is a Chinese word meaning intersection.
At present, it is one of the bustling jewellery
centres of Bangkok.
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Top left: Sampheng market
in 1870's with the now dismantled Sam Yot arch
in the background
Top right: S.A.B. Intersection at present
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Chaloem Krung Theatre is regarded as the
first theatre in South East Asia to have an air-conditioning
system and was the most modern and largest one at
that time. King Prajadhipok (Rama VII) who was fond
of films, gave an amount of money from his privy
purse to construct the theatre. Renovated in 1992,
it is now still in use. |
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Top
left: Sam Yot Intersection today
Top right: The S.A.B. building in 1910's |
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•
Nearby is Damrong Sathit bridge or Saphan
Lek Bon where Charoen Krung Road makes a turn to
the south as mentioned. At present, it is crowded
with shops and stalls selling game players, toys
electronic utilities and miscellaneous goods.
• Adjacent to the bridge is an old community
named "Sam Yot". The name derived
from the now dismantled arch with three pinnacles
atop the city gate there.
• Woeng Nakhon Kasem Market is
a big retail and wholesale market of machines, auto
parts and musical instruments. Next to this, the
S.A.B. Intersection stands. Nowadays, the office
of Sing Sien Yit Pao, the oldest Chinese newspaper
in Thailand, is located. |
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Si Phraya is the road connecting Charoen
Krung to Rama IV Road. "Si Phraya" refers
to the four high-ranking officials who joined together
to buy a piece of land between Surawong Road and
Phadung Krung Kasem Canal. Then they constructed
the road passing through that land and transferred
the right to the public.
• The Rare Stone Museum, located
on Charoen Krung Road, between Soi 26 and 28, is
the first of its kind in Thailand and perhaps in
Southeast Asia, too. One will be impressed by the
beauty and uniqueness of each piece of stone displayed
there. Open daily: 10:00 am to 5:30 PM Tel: 0 2236
5655-6, 0 2236 5712 Fax: 0 2237 2112 |
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General Post Office
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Interesting
Points on the Southern Section of Charoen Krung
Road
Now let's move to Charoen Krung's southern part
near the General Post Office, Bang Rak District.
This area has been important since the first foreigners,
Portugese, came to set up their consulate here
in 1820.
• Bangkokian Museum is situated
in Soi Charoen Krung 43. It reflects the lifestyles
of middle-class Bangkokians during World War II
(1937-1957). An interesting corner is the kitchen
in the old days. Opening hours: 9:00 am - 3:30
PM Contact Ajarn Waraporn Surawadi on Tel: 0 2233
7027.
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The Assumption Church
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•
General Post Office was once used as the
British Embassy. At present, this bulky structure
still serves as a post office.
• The Assumption Church was built
in 1822 by Reverend Pascal to honour the Virgin
Mary. Later in 1919, it was renovated to accommodate
the increasing number of Catholics. Construction
materials such as marble and colour stained glass
were imported from France and Italy. The church
is regarded as the most beautiful Gothic church
in Thailand.
• The Oriental Hotel was the
earliest modern European style hotel in the Rattanakosin
period. It was established in 1876 by two Danes
named H. Jarck and C. Salje. Famous writers Joseph
Conrad and Somerset Maugham used to be guests here.
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The splendid architectural style
of
OP Place today
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OP Place is a shopping centre which is located
in an ancient commercial building built in 1908
AD Initially, the building was constructed as Falck
& Beidek Store. Later, the place
successively changed its name to Oriental Plaza
Shopping Centre and OP Place. Constructed in Neoclassic
style, the building consists of two storeys with
a three-storey tower at each wing. Three gabled
porches are exceptional elegant. Best quality silk,
clothes, jewellery, antiques, leather products,
carpets, paintings and a variety of handicrafts
are available at OP Place. A branch of Chitralada
shop selling products under the royal projects is
situated here as well. |
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OP Place in 1908
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For those who have time, wherever you are in Bangkok,
you are recommended to visit the place. Shopping
here in the atmosphere of old town allows you to
have a glimpse of Bangkok in the olden days. Address:
301/1 Soi Charoen Krung 38, Charoen Krung Road,
Tel: 0 2266 0186-95 Fax: 0 2237 4062 |
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The old building of the
East Asiatic Co., (Thailand) Ltd.
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The former office of the East Asiatic Company
(Thailand) Limited is now well-conserved as
a historical building. It was a foreign company
running teak concessions in the north. Also, it
imported goods by water freight via the Chao Phraya
River. |
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Customs House
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Customs House is an old Italian-style construction
on the river bank. It was completed in 1890. All
imported commodities at that time were subject to
a 3% tax. Here was where importers paid their money.
Though shabby, it is now lodged by families of the
fire brigade people. |
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Wat Yannawa
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Wat (temple) Yannawa is a royal temple established
in the Ayutthaya period (1350-1767 AD). In King
Rama III's reign (1824-1851) of the Rattanakosin
period, the temple was renovated with a pagoda in
the form of the Chinese junk of 200 years ago built
in memory of this type of seagoing vessel which
had played an important role in Thailand's foreign
trade. The name Yannawa was bestowed by King Rama
III. |
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Shops and stalls along the road
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It will be found excellent to
drive along the road on holiday or when you have
plenty of time to drop by at some of the interesting
places mentioned above and enjoy shopping along
the road. A one-day excursion can be arranged
by spending the morning shopping along Yaowarat
Road which is just a few hundred steps away, and
spend the afternoon on Charoen Krung. (See map.)
Consult your travel agent or advertisers in Thaiways
about a personalised programme and enjoy your
trip.
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