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PHI
TA KHON
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The
One-in-the-World Festival
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By
Dararai / Photos by Induang
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| Most
people choose to join local festivals to spice
up their monotonous daily routine. Others are
willing to go backpacking to tread on untrodden
ways to search for the meanings of "travellers".
I myself am keen to experience new things from
travelling because seeing the world in other aspects
can broaden my view of life. And I believe, that
of everybody else as well. |
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| A
trip of mine to witness a unique Phi Ta Khon Festival
in Dansai County, Loei Province (520 km northeast
of Bangkok) was impressive. My very first time
in this province didn't disappoint me at all.
The awesome views of mountains shrouded in mists
alone rid me of tiredness from seven hours in
the coach. When considering the amusement received
from the festival, I could only judge that this
trip was really enjoyable. |
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| The
Phi Ta Khon Festival is an old traditional event
taking place only here yearly around June. It
is held as part of Bun Phra Wet and
Bun Bang Fai (Rocket Festival), which is the
major festival of the province. |
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The procession of Prince Vessantara
and his wife, Maddi
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| Bun
Phra Wet is a religious ceremony in which people
listen to the recitation within one day, of the
Mahachat story, the story of the last former
incarnation of the Lord Buddha. Bun Bang Fai is
the launching of bamboo rockets to pray for rain.
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Colourful
styles of Phi Ta Khon masks
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There
are two local legends said to be the origin
of this Phi Ta Khon festival. One is a tale
of two lovers whose affair was opposed by their
parents and who were accidentally sealed in
a cave and died there. As time passed, more
and more spirits came to be their attendants.
When it is the time for the Bun Phra Wet Festival,
these spirits emerge to join in a parade of
the sacred Phra Uppakhut (a white pebble
collected from the Man River, which is believed
to have divine power to protect the village
from evil spirits).
Phra Uppakhut, formerly was a monk with supernatural
powers. After attaining the highest phase of
meditation, he became so powerful that he could
transform himself into anything he liked. And
he chose to become a white pebble and live in
solitude under the Man River.
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A Khwai Tu
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Another
legend is derived from an episode in the Vessantara
Jataka recounting the journey home of Prince
Vessantara (the last former life of the Lord
Buddha) and his wife Maddi after years of exile
in the forest. The townspeople then celebrating
their return were so delightful that the spirits
emerged to join them.
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A very amusing Khwai Tu racing
contest
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| Last
year the event lasted for three days. The first
day began with a Buddhistic ritual at 3:00 a.m.
when Phra Uppakhut (the white pebble) was brought
from the Man river bank to Phonchai Temple. At
8:30 a.m., the Bai Si Su Khwan, a traditional
Thai ceremony concerning one's guardian spirit,
was conducted to celebrate the arrival of Phra
Uppakhut, then followed by the parade of Chao
Kuan and Nang Thiam, the male and female mediums
of the ceremony, with legions of Phi Ta Khon figures,
heading to Phonchai Temple. |
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Awesome
designs of
Phi Ta Khon figures with weapons
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In
the afternoon, there were a Phi Ta Khon dancing
contest and a Khwai Tu racing contest which
were very amusing. Khwai Tu was a model of water
buffalo into which a man put his lower body and
walk with it. After that, those who were interested
in local arts could have a look at the demonstration
of the production of the small Phi Ta Khon masks,
which were made of cardboard along with bamboo
containers of glutinous rice worn upside down.
Mostly, Phi Ta Khon figures were male but I saw
many girls too. The locals would prepare ghostly
masks for small Phi Ta Khon and huge models for
big Phi Ta Khon in advance of the festival. Regarding
the big ones which look like huge puppets, the
artisans must hold a ceremony to please deities
before creating them. It has been strictly believed
that each village can make only two models of
big Phi Ta Khon. These two huge puppets representing
a man and a woman were operated by men standing
inside. |
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Another scene of Prince
Vessantara procession.
The locals joining the parade
dress in white as part of merit making.
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| During
the procession, a rattling of metal filled the
atmosphere. It came from makkalaeng, bell-like
ornaments hung around the waists of Phi Ta Khon
to signify their arrival. Moreover, most Phi Ta
Khon carried wooden weapons in the shape of an
oversized penis with a splash of red paint on
the tip and played with the audience, who were
highly amused by their antics. These phallus were
not considered rude. Indeed, they were a token
of power and fertility. Natives believe that these
things will satisfy Phaya Thaen, a most
revered deity of the northeastern region who is
believed to control the well-being of villagers.
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In front of Phonchai Temple,
Phi Ta Khon figures are teasing
with each other boisterously.
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On
the second day, at 8.00 a.m. all Phi Ta Khon gathered
at the ground of Ban Dan Sai school. Around 10.00
a.m., the inaugural ceremony began. Certainly,
the highlight was the parade of big and small
Phi Ta Khon which included Khwai Tu and Thang
Bang performances (men dressed in primitive savage
costumes poking clubs).
The processions were very eye-appealing, especially
Phi Ta Khon and Khwai Tu who played with onlookers
joyfully. Northeastern music was the key that
made the whole performances full of fun. All participants
danced boisterously to the cheerful rhythm, entertaining
the crowd. In the afternoon, there were the procession
of Phra Vessantara to Phonchai Temple and the
rocket shooting. In the evening, lay people came
to listen to Phra Malai* sermons at this
temple. And those who preferred dancing joined
the Phi Ta Khon party in front of the County Administration.
In former times, at the end of this day, all Phi
Ta Khon would toss their ghostly costumes and
masks into the Man River to signify that the return
of Prince Vessantara had chased away all evil
spirits. But nowadays, villagers keep them for
the next year's festival.
On the third day, at 04.00 a.m., the townspeople
went to the temple to listen to the Mahachat story.
This practice was believed to generate a great
merit for them. Around 8.00 a.m., worshippers
presented foods to Buddhist monks. Then the ritual
to ward off bad luck from the town was begun by
incantation. |
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The
rocket procession.
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Phi Ta Khon Festival is like Halloween of Western
countries in that both provide people with excitement
and fun. In the former event you can also observe
the friendly lifestyle of the rural people of
Thailand. Let's visit Loei Province to join this
festival which will cover the period of 19-21
June this year. The Phi Ta Khon procession is
scheduled to take place on 20 June. You will find
the trip worthwhile and memorable. |
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| How
to Get There: |
By
bus: Bangkok-Loei bus services are available
at the North and Northeast Air-con Bus Station
(Mo Chit Mai), Tel: 0 2936 2852-66. It takes about
7 hours to reach Loei.
By car: From Bangkok, go along Highway
1 (Phahonyothin). After passing Saraburi town,
drive along Highway 21 through Petchabun province.
Then continue driving along Highway 203, passing
Lomsak and Lomkao counties. And you will reach
Dansai county, Loei province.
By air: A direct flight takes 1.20 hours
to get to Loei. |
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*Phra Malai was an arhat (a Buddhist
with the highest attainment like saints in Christianity)
who could travel in heaven and hell and came
back to teach human beings on earth to do good
deeds so that when they were dead, their souls
would go to
heaven. A Phra Malai sermon is one about the
arhat's teaching concerning heaven and hell.
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more information about the detailed schedule
of the festival, please contact Loei Tourism
Cooperation Centre on tel: 0 4281 2812. |
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