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have fallen in love with the Chao Phraya River,
the main stream of Thailand, since I was a student
at a Thailand's most famous university which is
situated by the river. I enjoyed the cool breeze
from the river which made the campus's atmosphere
serene and refreshing. In the evening, I liked
to hang around the riverside recreational area,
chatting with friends and watching cargo barges
sailing along the waterway. |
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| When
a cabin cruiser passed in front of me, I would
wonder how it would be like to go on a cruise.
These impressions of the Chao Phraya River are
kept in photos and in my memory though I graduated
several years ago. |
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A Western-style statue at Bang Pa-in Palace
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One
pleasant day a few months ago, my colleagues
and I had an opportunity to go on a cruise along
the Chao Phraya River (going by bus, returning
by boat). Our air-conditioned coach left Bangkok
at 8.00 am, heading for Ayutthaya province,
which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage
Site in 1991. |
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| Aisawan-Thipphaya-At
Pavilion |
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| From
Bangkok to Ayutthaya |
An hour later, we were sightseeing
at Bang Pa-in Palace and fell
under the spell of its splendour. This summer
palace was first built in the reign of King Prasat
Thong (1629-1656) in the Ayutthaya period. The
palace was frequented by the king and his successors
until the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767.
Later on, the palace was restored by King Rama
IV (1851-1868). But it was not until the reign
of King Rama V(1868-1910), that Bang Pa-in Palace
was fully developed and took its present shape.
During his reign, several magnificent buildings
in the Western style were constructed, such as
Utthayan Phumisathian and Warophat Phiman
Mansions. Also, the two-storeyed Chinese-style
palace, Wehat Chamrun, was built
and presented to the King in 1889 by Chinese merchants
as a token of the long-lasting brotherly relationship
between the Thai and Chinese peoples.
Plenty of lush trees, beautifully arranged gardens
and cool breeze made the surroundings ideal for
a stroll. But for those who do not want to walk,
carts for rent are available. Museum hours last
from 8.30 am to 3.30 pm daily. |
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Wat
Mahathat |
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| The next place we visited
was Wat Mahathat, or rather its
ruins, built over 600 years ago. Constructed according
to the ancient values that there should be great
temples around the grand palace, this temple was
the centre of Ayutthaya people's faith. |
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The head of an ancient Buddha image
embraced in the overground roots of a bo tree
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That
is why it was completely burnt down by the Burmese
invaders during their final assault of the capital.
However, there is one Buddha image left--Phra
Khanthararat. This green stone image is of the
Khmer style (Bayon). Later, it was moved to
Wat Naphramen by the command of King Rama II
(1809-1824). In 1956, the Fine Arts Department
discovered relics of the Buddha in the stupa
within a seven-layer reliquary which also contained
other precious items. At present they are kept
in the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum. And
if you walk around the ruins, you will find
the head of an ancient Buddha image embraced
in the overground roots of a bo tree. The first
moment I saw this Buddha image's head I was
very sad. But the next minute I felt amazed
at this natural phenomenon. |
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Wat Naphramen |
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| Leaving Wat Mahathat, we arrived
at Wat Naphramen. It is the only
temple in Ayutthaya that is not destroyed because
it used to be the headquarters of the Burmese
invaders. The ordination hall has no windows like
all temples erected in the Ayutthaya period. Instead,
it has several small openings on the walls with
carved stone bars for ventilation. In particular,
I appreciated the graceful art style of the principal
Buddha image in full royal regalia, and I believe
you will feel the same when you see it. |
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Wat
Lokayasutharam |
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The next place we visited
was Wat Lokayasutharam where
the largest reclining Buddha image (32m long,
8m high) in Ayutthaya, Phra Buddha Saiyat, is
enshrined. At present, there is no vihara to shelter
the image. The village elders said that in the
past the vihara roof was made of tin. Consequently,
it was struck by lightning twice. After that the
local people agreed to leave the image outdoors.
Since we had to cruise back to Bangkok in the
afternoon, this temple was the last place in the
first-half of the programme of the day. However,
other attractions worth visiting in the Ayutthaya
Historical Park are many, such as Wat Phanan Choeng,
Wat Mongkhol Bophit, Wat Phra Sisanphet, Wat Chai
Watthanaram and Wat Rat Burana. All used to be
significant temples in the old days. |
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| Cruising
from Ayutthaya to Bangkok
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| Our cruiser departed
Wat Pho Taeng Nua pier around 1.00 pm. The first
interesting point the cruiser passed was Wat
Phai Lom in Pathum Thani province. |
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| Erected in the Sukhothai period,
nowadays the monastery is a habitat of Asian openbills,
which are a rare species protected by law. They
migrate from India in November, nest and live
here until June before flying back to India. Watching
a flock of them soaring into the sky gave me a
sense of freedom. |
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Around 3.00 pm, we passed
Ko Kret with the Mutao Chedi
as a landmark. It is so aged that its body is
leaning dangerously towards the river like the
Pisa Leaning Tower of Italy. Ko Kret is an islet
under the administration of Nonthaburi province.
Most settlers are of Mon descent whose craftsmanship
in making earthenware is well known all over the
country.
An hour after that, we caught sight of the Krung
Thon Bridge (or Sang Hi Bridge, Sang
Hi being a Chinese word meaning "double happiness").
It connects Thon Buri and Phra Nakhon districts
on the west and east side of the river respectively.
It was constructed in 1955. Since the bridge construction
started from Ratchawithi Road which is commonly
known as Sang Hi Road, it has been called Sang
Hi Bridge popularly, though its official name
is Krung Thon Bridge. |
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Rama VIII
Bridge |
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| Not far from this point, the
Rama VIII Bridge is situated.
This is the latest bridge stretching across the
Chao Phraya River built to alleviate the traffic
burdens of Pin Klao and Sang Hi bridges in accordance
with HM King Bhumibol's command. At night, when
it is illuminated, the golden cables above the
suspension bridge glitter in the sky, creating
a new remarkable city scene. |
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Bangkoknoi
Railway Station |
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| Five minutes later, we passed
under the Pin Klao Bridge, whose
name is given to commemorate the last but one
deputy king in Thai history, Somdej Phra Pin Klao,
who was the younger brother of King Mongkut (Rama
IV). Near the bridge we saw Thammasat University.
Its symbol, which is the pinnacle of its administration
office building, can be noticed from afar. The
opposite side of it is the Bangkoknoi
Railway Station. Next
to it is Siriraj Hospital, the
first hospital of Thailand, built by the command
of King Rama V (1868-1910). At present it is still
one of the largest and most modern hospitals in
the country. |
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Royal Grand
Palace |
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| Just across the Bangkok Noi
Canal from the railway station is the Royal
Barges Museum, where dozens of beautifully
decorated boats used in royal processions are
displayed. It is a tourist attraction daily frequented
by hundreds of foreign tourists. It should be
mentioned as such though it is hidden behind houses
and cannot be seen from the river. |
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Temple
of Dawn |
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Around 4.00 pm, we passed
the Royal Grand Palace. A ray
of sunlight reflecting the gold roofs and Chedis
enhanced the glory of the place. The scene was
so beautiful that I almost forgot to blink.
Obliquely opposite the palace is the Temple
of Dawn whose photos appear in almost
all tourist brochures of Thailand. In former times,
the tall pagoda in the temple was the first place
in Thon Buri to catch the morning light. It was
used to house the Emerald Buddha before the statue
was moved to Wat Phra Kaeo in 1785. |
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Phra Phutthayotfa
Bridge |
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| We then passed the old
palace of King Taksin in Thon Buri
district which is now used as the Royal Thai
Navy Headquarters. And the last important attraction
we saw was the Phra Phutthayotfa Bridge
or Saphan Phut as people prefer to call. This
bridge's construction was initiated by King
Rama VII to celebrate the 150th anniversary
of the founding of the Chakri dynasty in 1932
and is the first bridge spanning the Chao Phraya
River.
A moment after that we safely arrived at the
River City Complex Pier. We got off the cruiser
with joy and appreciation in our hearts and
smiles on our faces.
Before we went back home, our new foreign friends
said farewell to us and added, "It is a
relaxing and enjoyable programme. We love to
see several aspects of Thai people in the peaceful
atmosphere along the river."
Along the way in the cruiser, what passed through
our eyes were authentic lifestyles of the riverside
residents. Many temples situated by the river
are still the
centre of people's faith. You can see various
sizes of traditional wooden houses on stilts
with a boat tied to one of them. This underlines
the importance of the river that has been serving
her people for almost 700 years.
To me, this trip was somewhat like a dream come
true. The memory of the Chao Phraya River became
more vivid to me and this impression will remain
for the rest of my life.
Special thanks to River Sun Cruise for giving
the touring opportunity and information to Thaiways--Ed.
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